Patagonia wasn’t on my radar until a few years ago. Well, I guess it was after visiting Peru in 2019 that I became interested in heading farther south. Patagonia, which lies in the southern tip of South America in Chile and Argentina, is a hiker’s paradise with countless trails and National Parks to explore. One could easily spend months hiking in the region where the numerous small towns cater to hikers and outdoor adventurers. When researching for this trip, I quickly found two popular destinations, Torres del Paine National Park in Chile and El Chalten in Argentina. So, that was my plan but, plans can (and will) change. I will write a separate post about how to plan a trip to Patagonia. It’s the most complicated trip I’ve planned to date!
Torres del Paine National Park is a popular destination for hikers and backpackers of all experience levels. There are several different options when visiting the park. You could choose a day hike, most likely to the torres, or towers for which this park is named. For longer visits, you could hike the “W” Trek which could be done in 4-5 days, or the “O” Trek in 7-8 days. Since I was short on time, I chose the “W” Trek.
Day 1
March 6, 2024
It was a 2.5-hour bus ride from Puerta Natales to Torres del Paine National Park. Once we arrived at the National Park Welcome Center, we had to get off the bus, show our park ticket, and then get on another bus to our final destination. I was starting on the west side of the park so I had about another 45-minute bus ride to Pudeto where I would catch the catamaran to Paine Grande.
The wind started to pick up as we waited for the catamaran to arrive. Once on the boat, it was a choppy 30-minute ride to the Paine Grande Refugio and campground. I had made myself a sandwich the night before so I sat on a mostly wind-blocked bench and ate lunch before starting my trek.
The views were STUNNING! It’s always surreal when I arrive at a place I have been researching and watching videos about for a long time. Photos can’t compare to being there in person with the mountains and the wind. It was time to hike! Today I would hike up the left side of the “W” from Paine Grande to Grey. Eight miles doesn’t seem so bad until you carry a heavy pack uphill and into a 40+ MPH wind. The first part of the trail ascended through a valley that acted as a wind tunnel. Once at the top of the valley, the views opened up!
The trail now traversed the rolling and rocky terrain along the eastern edge of Lago Grey. The towering mountains to the right and the grey-colored lake to the left were awe-inspiring! Many streams, waterfalls, and smaller rivers were coming down from the mountain glaciers on their way to the lake. Some of these streams would join the trail for a while making for slick rocks. It was slow-going for me between the terrain, wind, and wanting to take photos so it took me about 4 hours to reach the Grey Refugio and Campground. It had been a long day and I was tired! I ended up staying in the hostel that night. After dinner and chatting with my roommates, it was time for a long night’s sleep!
Day 2
March 7, 2024
Today’s hike would be back to Paine Grande, returning on the same trail I hiked yesterday. But, before starting the return trip, I took a quick detour up to the Mirador Glacier Grey. It was a calm and cool morning and not too many hikers were up yet so I almost had the place to myself. The views of the glacier did not disappoint!
The hike back to Paine Grande was much more enjoyable than the previous day mainly because there was no wind. I took my time and enjoyed the incredible views once again. I arrived at Paine Grande where I stayed in the hostel and spent the day relaxing.
Day 3
March 8, 2024
Today would be the longest of the trek at just over 14 miles. It was raining as I packed up for the day and had a bite to eat. Decked out in my rain gear, I was one of the few who left in the rain which tapered off fairly quickly. The first section of this day’s hike was over rolling hills, around lakes, and over wooden walkways above marshy bogs. It was my favorite section of the whole trek! This section ended at Italiano Campground (the campground is not open but there is a building with minimal services). Here is where you can leave your pack as you make your way up the middle leg of the “W” to the Mirador Britanico.
This was a fairly challenging section with areas of rock-hopping and very steep, wet, and muddy trail conditions. The views of the Frances Glacier across the valley were spectacular! Between the raging river coming down from the glaciers above and the echoing thunder-like crashes of the glacier ice, it was a very awe-inspiring place to experience.
Once back at Italiano Campground, I ate lunch and headed toward Cuernos Campground and Refugio. It was another 7 miles over undulating terrain and a brief walk along the shoreline of Lake Nordenskjold. I was exhausted when I arrived at the campground and was led to my tent platform. I was looking forward to sleeping in my tent that night but that quickly changed.
I’ve mentioned the wind at this National Park before. It seems like it comes every couple of days and lasts about 24 hours. This is a strong, sustained wind of 40+ mph with gusts much higher. After I had set up my tent using large rocks instead of tent stakes on the wooden platform, I heard what sounded like a freight train barrelling up the valley from the lake. The wind was back and beat up my poor tent all night! I didn’t sleep that night and found my tent poles bent in the morning.
Day 4
March 9, 2024
Today I would hike 9 miles to the Chileno Campground located about halfway up the right leg of the “W”. After my rough night, I was ready to move. The wind was still strong and gusty but the sun was shining. As the trail wound up and over the mountains, the views of the bright blue lake below were epic! I tried to stop for a break and a snack at an overlook but the wind made it impossible. The wind also made crossing a suspension bridge an even more thrilling adventure!
A sign finally appeared showing the shortcut trail to Chileno. I foolishly thought I must be getting close but instead had several miles of uphill into a 40mph wind to contend with. We finally merged with the main trail and headed up the aptly named Windy Pass. It was a wide gravel trail with a steep dropoff on the right. The headwind was so strong I had to stop and brace myself several times to keep from being blown over!
I was supposed to camp again tonight but knew my lightweight tent wouldn’t survive. The high winds were expected to last until morning. When I checked in at the campground, they graciously let me take one of their pre-setup tents! It felt so luxurious and the wind was no problem so I slept well!
Day 5
March 10, 2024
My last morning was supposed to be the trip’s highlight, a pre-dawn trek up to the Torres. However, when my alarm went off at 5:00 AM it was raining with low cloud cover meaning there would be no views this morning. I decided to forego the 2-hour hike into the clouds and instead started my long descent down the valley toward the visitor’s center.
I had a couple of hours before the shuttle would arrive to take me back to the park entrance where I would catch my bus back to Puerta Natales. While eating lunch, I chatted with a couple of Korean women I had crossed paths with several times over the past few days. They had made the same decision I had that morning! Even when looking back towards the Torres from the park entrance, they were still shrouded in clouds even though the day had turned sunny. It just wasn’t meant to be on this trip!
Overall, my time at the Torres del Paine National Park was amazing. And humbling. And totally awe-inspiring! The beauty and wildness of the Park are worth the challenges in getting there. I would highly recommend a visit to any avid hiker, just be prepared both physically and mentally. I can be a harsh environment that is constantly changing.
