Here we go!
The Kerry Way is a long-distance walking path on the Inveragh Peninsula, County Kerry, in SW Ireland. It roughly follows the famous “Ring of Kerry,” which is a scenic road popular with cyclists, tour buses, and cars during the summer season. The walk is approximately 140 miles, depending on any alternate paths you may take. It typically takes 9 days to walk the entire Way, and the towns and available accommodation dictate the daily mileage.
I’ve been wanting to hike in Ireland for a while, and luckily, there are several trails to choose from. The Kerry Way was the perfect distance for a two-week trip as it allowed for some “tourist” activities after the walk! I flew into Dublin, then took a short flight from there to the Kerry Airport and a bus into Killarney, the start and end point of the Kerry Way. I stayed the night in a private room at the Railway Hostel (It was a place to sleep, although I can’t recommend it.). The afternoon was spent prepping my pack, buying some groceries for the next couple of days, and seeing the sights of Killarney.
Day 1 – Killarney to Black Valley
May 21, 2025
The weather forecast was not ideal. The first few days of my walk would be nice then it was solid rain for the next week. I was told numerous times about the fantastic sunny weather they had been enjoying for the past 5 weeks, but it looks like the rain is back. Of course it is!
I set out from my hostel around 7:30 as I knew it would be a long day of 18 miles. It seemed like it took forever to finally get out of Killarney and the traffic and school kids. Today will spend most of the day walking through the Killarney National Park. Once you exit the park, you can choose to walk the Way either clockwise or counter-clockwise and will return to Killarney on the same path back through the National Park in the opposite direction. Most walkers will choose to go counter-clockwise, which is what I did.
The walk through the National Park was stunning! First walking past Lough Leane (the lake in the top photo), the Muckross House, and then Torc Falls. It was a steep climb from the Falls, which also left most of the tourists behind. Then it was a beautiful walk through the hills, past a creek and waterfall, until we left the park and arrived at a rural road. Here I turned right to head towards Black Valley.
Black Valley
The walk towards Black Valley was breathtaking! A perfect sunny day with blue skies and a nice breeze made for enjoyable walking. The road eventually turned into a path winding through the valley and passing the Upper Lake Killarney. I was getting a bit hot and tired when I came across a tea room next to Lord Brandon’s Cottage, where I bought a cold drink and a snack. I only had a couple more miles to go, and I couldn’t check into the hostel until 4:00, so I had some time to kill.
As I was walking up to the tea room, I passed a man walking the other way who asked what trail I was walking. I told him I was on day 1 of 9 on the Kerry Way, and he said to stretch well tonight because day 2 is going to be tough! Day 2 wasn’t even on my radar because the mileage was less than today, and I was more concerned about the pending weather and longer stages the next week. I learned otherwise!
After my break, I crossed over the Gearhameen River and finally arrived at the Black Valley Hostel. I had booked a bunk, but the hostess moved me into the family apartment since she had a group of high school students staying that night. It was a lovely apartment, and she bought the fixings for breakfast for the morning.
Where I stayed:
There are limited options for lodging in Black Valley. The most affordable option is the Black Valley Hostel, where I stayed. There are also a few B&Bs close by. I booked my stay at the hostel’s website. You pay a deposit online then the balance in cash upon arrival. They offer both bunks and private rooms or apartments. Breakfast fixings are provided for you to prepare yourself. Be aware that there are no stores or restaurants in Black Valley for dinner. You will need to bring your own food or the hostess will bring groceries for you if you order them the day before your arrival. It’s all spelled out on the website. I was the only Kerry Way walker staying there that night and got upgraded to an apartment due to a group booking in the bunk room. It was an enjoyable stay and I highly recommend!