Camino Primitivo Stage 12 – Boente to Arca

Almost there

June 9, 2022

The cafe was supposed to open at 7:00 so I waited patiently for breakfast before heading out on a misty morning. They did not have my favorite Spanish tortilla so I had a large omelet and orange juice to start my day. Blue skies appeared soon enough as the fog began to lift on what would turn out to be a gorgeous day.

I was still getting used to walking with so many other people. There were moments I felt like I could have been part of a parade it was so crowded! Today was fairly hilly with a lot of ups and downs but nothing like the mountains we were climbing the previous week. We passed through many villages along the way and each bar and cafe seemed to be busy with lots of pilgrims. Early in the day, we passed through the city of ArzĂșa where many groups of pilgrims must have been staying the night before. Suddenly, there were large groups of people spanning the entire width of the path. They didn’t seem too concerned that they were blocking the way for other pilgrims to pass. The folks riding bicycles especially weren’t too pleased.

Beer garden
A popular rest stop

Lunch with the frogs

Lunch stop
Koi pond complete with noisy frogs

It was around noon and I was starting to get hungry so I stopped for lunch at one of the bars in the village of A Boavista. I ordered an atĂșn bocadilla (tuna fish sandwich) and a Kas Limon and sat outside on the back patio. I kept hearing this strange yapping/barking sound only to realize it was coming from the koi pond and its many frog inhabitants. Who knew frogs sounded like that, they were so loud!

Several of us gathered around to take photos of the active frogs and it was a great way to relax for a while before getting back on the road. My sandwich was so big that I ended up taking half of it with me to have for dinner that night.

The rest of the day followed paved paths through villages lined with flowers. It was getting fairly warm by the time I reached my Albergue for the night, Pension O Muiño. I actually had a private room with a shared bath. My window opened out to the garden where I was able to hang my clothes in the sun while I drank a welcomed Tinto del Verano at the bar. It was hard to believe that tomorrow was the last day! Oh, and guess who I saw sitting outside of the bar? Tex with his group of friends. They were having a good time so we said good night. That would be my last Tex sighting on the Camino.

Photos – Click to enlarge

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