Camino Primitivo Stage 3 – Salas to Tineo

May 31, 2022

This morning, my new Camino family had grown to three with Gary joining Suzanne and me. We had breakfast at the Albergue and started the long climb out of Salas. The morning climb would become the norm on most mornings! The trail was beautiful as we walked through a green tunnel ascending above the Nonaya River. There was a side trail that went down to a waterfall but we opted to keep heading up the main trial.

The morning’s highlight came when walking through a small village next to a barn full of cows. There was a window where a cow had stuck her head through so I went to pet her, of course. These cows are well acquainted with pilgrims and know we tend to sweat and become salty. Before I realized what was happening, the cow had licked my phone and was going for my face! Their tongues are very long! Several more cows joined our party and we had a great time playing with them for a while.

The Camino has a reputation for bringing people together from many places around the world. Some of these people want a solo experience while they walk and gather with others in the evenings. Others form “families” and end up walking together every day. Admittedly, I tend to be a solo hiker but was open to whatever happened on the Camino.

Walking with my new Camino family, both of whom are Camino veterans, I quickly learned that I really enjoyed the camaraderie of walking with others. When alone, I tend to power through the daily miles stopping only long enough to snap a photo. Walking with Suzanne and Gary, I learned to stop and literally smell the roses. It was also easier to meet others and to go into bars in small villages that I would have been intimidated to do if I were alone.

Tineo is a cute village built on the side of a steep hill. As we entered the town, we started a long, steep descent to the Albergue where Suzanne and I were staying and the posh hotel where Gary was staying. The La Plaza Hostel is also built on a hill. You enter the building seemingly on the first floor but then need to go down a level to the bunk room and down another level to the terrace where we hung our laundry to dry. Before the rain started, anyway. But the view!

We met Gary at his hotel and stayed there for dinner. I saw Malthe and invited him to join us. Again, I was just blown away by his knowledge and his willingness to hang out with three “old” folks. Malthe enjoyed walking alone during the day but we would all invariably end up at dinner together most nights.