Dromid to Caherdaniel to Sneem
May 26, 2025
I woke to the sound of rain hitting the window. Today’s walk will be 17 miles to get to the town of Caherdaniel. At this point on the Kerry Way, you can choose to walk the coastal route through Waterville or take a more direct inland route through the mountains. Originally, I had planned on the inland route, which is why I stayed at the Dromid Hostel instead of continuing to Waterville. With the less-than-ideal weather forecast, I decided walking the inland route alone wasn’t a smart decision.
Part of me wanted to call a taxi to take me right to Caherdaniel. Instead, after what seemed like hours of checking maps, guidebooks, and bus schedules, I decided to walk to Waterville and see how I felt when I got there. Instead of following the arrows through fields to get back to the main Way, I road walked. Back on the main path, we climbed a steep hill, and at the top, was where the path split. I made up my own path to avoid the ridge walk to Waterville and instead walked a quiet country road into town.
It was 8 miles to Waterville, and it rained the entire way. Sometimes heavy, sometimes light, with a strong headwind. I arrived in Waterville about noon and knew I wasn’t going to walk the remaining 9 miles that day. It’s a beautiful coastal walk between Waterville and Caherdaniel, but today would be miserable.
Aside from the tour buses letting people off in town, the town seemed closed up. There was nowhere to seek shelter from the wind and rain, and it was another 1.5 hours before the bus would arrive. I walked around town a bit and was starting to get cold. Finally, I saw people entering one of the bars so I went inside to get some tea while I waited. The kitchen didn’t officially open for 30 more minutes but I was able to get a bowl of seafood chowder. It was amazing and just what I needed!
Eventually, the bus arrived and carried me to Caherdaniel. I checked into my hostel and met my roommates. A German man arrived soon after I did, followed by a Belgian man who was cycling the Kerry Way, and the German woman I had walked with the day before. We all went to dinner at the only pub in town, The Blind Piper.
Where I stayed:
There’s not much to the town of Caherdaniel aside from the hostel and one pub. I stayed at the Kerry Way Rest, aka Traveler’s Rest Hostel. This is a super cute and cozy hostel that offers both bunks and private rooms. The hostess was lovely and helpful with getting us checked in. I opted for a bunk this time to help offset some of the more expensive nights along the way. There is a well-stocked kitchen, dining room, and living room downstairs. I paid €30 for the bed and €3 for a towel. I booked through their website inquiry page and paid cash upon arrival.
Caherdaniel to Sneem – Day 7
May 27, 2025
The forecast was once again for rain the whole day. After the last 3 wet and windy days, I needed a break. I made the tough decision to take a bus instead of walking to Sneem. In hindsight, I wish I had walked because the weather wasn’t as bad as anticipated, but it is what it is! My roommates all left while I waited at the hostel until the bus came around 1:30.
It was a beautiful drive to Sneem, and I was feeling a bit of FOMO at not walking, but it was blustery with the wind. Sneem is a colorful little town with lots of shops and restaurants. There were busloads of tourists walking through town, making it rather congested. I found my hotel, checked in, and went to find something to eat. I entered the least crowded place and found the German man having lunch! He was going a bit farther that day, but both he and the German woman were staying at the same place I was the next night in Kenmare.
Where I stayed:
I stayed in a private room at the Stone House B&B (except without breakfast). The Stone House is a seafood restaurant that has several rooms above it. My room was small with a single bed, a dresser, and a bathroom. Quite by accident, I found this place when looking at Google Maps, and it had a link to their website. I had already booked a B&B just outside of town, but the Stone House was half the cost and right in the town center, so I switched. I booked my room through the inquiry page on their website and paid €55 with my credit card upon arrival.