Sneem to Kenmare to Killarney
May 28, 2025
I walked through the deserted streets of Sneem just after 7 AM. Today was 20 miles to the town of Kenmare, and the weather looked fantastic! I would see my German friends at the hostel tonight, but I would walk alone today. We had planned for a bailout point at a bus stop about 3/4 of the way to Kenmare in case we didn’t want to walk that far. So, I left early to give myself plenty of time to reach the bus stop by 2:30 when the bus came.
It was a beautiful morning! After following back roads for a while, the Way made its way up to the top of a hill with breathtaking views. Miles of rolling pastures with the Kenmare River seen in the distance. I met a couple of other hikers who were walking a section of the Kerry Way, but otherwise, I was alone in the hills.
After coming down the mountain, the trail crossed over the Blackwater Bridge and then descended to the shoreline. I walked along the Kenmare River for about 3 miles before crossing over the N70 again. Here, I left the “official” trail and followed the road for a mile or so to reach the Templenoe Church, the location of the bailout bus stop. It was just after noon and I was feeling good. I decided I didn’t want to wait 2 hours for the bus, so after a quick snack break, I continued to Kenmare.
After rejoining the Way, the trail started to head back up another large hill through several sheep pastures. This section also had several boggy areas that required careful navigation to avoid sinking into the muck. I already had that experience! There was a nice bench at the crest of the hill, so I lingered for a while, taking in the views!
Finally, I could see Kenmare in the distance! It was a long, slow slog down the hill over rough terrain. Once I reached the road, a car pulled up next to me. An older Irish gentleman asked me where in the States I was from. I have no idea how he knew where I was from before I even said a word! He was fascinated that I was walking the Kerry Way alone and was very friendly. Of course, we talked about all the rain!
Where I stayed:
I stayed at Failte Lodging Kenmare, aka Failte Hostel Kenmare. It is located on the opposite side of town from where the Kerry Way enters Kenmare. Check-in time is only between 5:00 and 7:00 PM, so I walked around town and bought a smoothie to kill time. There is a common room on the first floor with books about the area, but no kitchen for cooking or storing food. They offer both bunks in a shared room and private rooms. I opted for a bunk and paid €30, which I booked and paid for on their website. My German friends were in the same room as I was, and we went to one of the many nearby bars for dinner. Overall, it was a pleasant stay, and I highly recommend it.
Day 9 – Back to Killarney
May 29, 2025
The final day of the Kerry Way follows a road back to the Killarney National Park. From here, you retrace your steps from day 1 through the park and back to Killarney. While my German friends and I were having dinner the night before, we got news that there was at least one place along the road that was flooded from the recent rains. It was described as a river flowing across the road! This person had decided to turn around and return to Kenmare instead of trying to cross the water alone. I decided that evening that I would end my hike in Kenmare and take a bus back to Killarney.
On this last day, we had breakfast together, and I returned to the hostel while the Germans decided to attempt the hike to Killarney. It had rained overnight but was overcast this morning. I’ll admit to feeling a bit of FOMO as I watched them walk off! As I stood at the bus stop an hour later, it started to rain and the clouds hung low over the hills.
Later that afternoon at the Railway Hostel in Killarney, I received a text from the Germans to meet them at a pub. They were both soaking wet and had to ford THREE swiftly moving “rivers” crossing the road. It had rained almost the entire day, and they were exhausted. I was happy with my decision to take the bus that day! They were both heading back to Germany the next day, while I was staying in Ireland for another week.
The Kerry Way was a great introduction to hiking in Ireland. The terrain is challenging yet doable, and the views are incredible! For me, the biggest factor was the weather. You never know what you’re going to get when you book your trip months ahead of time. I happened to get a wet and wild week! Of all the hikes I’ve done, this is the first one where I stressed over the weather forecast and whether I should walk on any particular day. But, as the saying goes, hike your own hike! I’m happy with how it all turned out and the wonderful people I met along the way. I’m already planning my next Irish walk!