Almograve – Zambujeira do Mar – Odeceixe
May 12, 2026
The familiar rhythm of the trail had officially returned: rising early, watching the morning sunlight flood the landscape, crossing paths with familiar faces, sourcing dinner from tiny markets, handwashing clothes every night, and falling asleep in shared hostel rooms. No matter the trek, the routine remains the same.
As soon as I left the hostel, it started to rain. I sought shelter under some trees, and after 5 minutes, it was clear and sunny. Deep sand greeted us again as the trail skirted the high cliffs along the ocean. Around the halfway mark, several hikers had stopped at a small village cafe, and it was here that I had my very first (of many) pastel de natas.
The last few miles I walked with a German man I had met in the hostel the previous night. It was a long walk along a road before we entered the village of Zambujeria do Mar. I made my way to the hostel to get settled in, then explored the town before meeting Debbie for dinner. Perched dramatically on the cliffs above a sweeping, sandy cove, Zambujeira instantly stole my heart as one of my absolute favorite villages on the entire coast.
Where I stayed:
Hostel Nature in Zambujeira do Mar was my favorite hostel. The house belonged to the owner’s grandparents, and now he and his family live upstairs, while the hostel is downstairs. Diogo and his wife have turned the hostel into a sanctuary for travelers with every amenity you could think of, along with many stories from their years hosting hikers. HIGHLY RECOMMEND! I paid $35 for a bunk and reserved on Booking.com.
Day 4: To Odeceixe
Today’s walk from Zambujeria do Mar to Odeceixe was one of my favorites of the entire trail! While the sweeping Atlantic vistas remained a constant companion, the route carved a dramatic path up and down the surrounding coastal hills. I really enjoyed the variety of the landscape. From steep, rocky hills where the shrubbery and wildflowers almost hide the trail, to segments along a boardwalk, and of course, more deep, soft sand.
The white-walled village of Odeceixe sits tucked away about a mile inland along a beautiful tidal inlet. To get there, the trail forces a steep descent from the towering cliffs down to the water’s edge, followed by a long, flat road walk into town. A vibrant, colorful mural welcomed us at the village entrance. After winding through a maze of cobblestone streets, I finally reached my hotel. I later met Debbie at a trendy cafe on the plaza and had dinner.
Where I stayed:
I treated myself to a private hotel room in Odeceixe. Sol Mar was a few streets away from the city center and right along the main street I would follow the next morning. The receptionist was a lively, talkative woman who was excited to welcome her customers to the hotel. The room itself was very small, but it had a private bathroom and was right next to the balcony where I could hang my clothes to dry. They also included a wonderful breakfast the next morning! I paid $65 and reserved it through Booking.com.
