Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen
May 24, 2025
As I sat having breakfast at my B&B, I still hadn’t decided whether to walk today or take a bus to the next town. The weather forecast predicted thunderstorms for most of the day, with the route being on high, exposed hills. The hostess turned on the radio, and the forecast stated on and off rain throughout the day. The Kerry Way was calling, so I decided to go for it!
I left my cozy B&B and crossed the street to see that the Australian couple was just ahead. I caught up to them and we ended up walking together for the day. We left Glenbeigh, walking through a beautiful fairy forest before starting a long and steady climb. About this time, it starts to rain.
The trail spirals up and around a mountain overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. The grey, overcast sky melted into the sea below, with the waves crashing onto the shore. On a clear day, this view would be spectacular, although it was still pretty epic. A few other hikers passed us, and as we ascended higher, the rain became heavier and the wind tried to blow us off the mountain. Crossing over the pass to the other side of the mountain was hard! The now hurricane-strength headwind and pelting rain made forward movement almost impossible.
I was hoping that once we were on the backside of the mountain, it would give us a break from the wind. It did not. We had been walking for about 10 miles at this point, with at least 6 more to go. The wind and rain were relentless! John found a half-fallen-down barn next to the trail, and we went inside for a well-deserved break. The town we were staying in that night is about 6 miles off the Kerry Way. The Aussies were planning on getting a taxi into town from that point, and I thought that was a great idea.
A young German couple had passed us earlier that day, and we came up on them running through a cow pasture. There was a group of cows lying across the path in front of the bridge we needed to cross. They were afraid the cows would charge them. The cows were easily shooed away, and we made it to a community center where we all decided to get a taxi into town. I was tired, wet, and cold, and could only think of a hot shower and a warm bed.
Where I stayed:
Cahersiveen offers many accommodations to choose from. It’s close to many tourist attractions such as Skellig Michael, so it tends to be more expensive. I stayed at the Sive Hostel, AKA Sive Townhouse or Sive Budget Accommodation. It offers a variety of rooms, including bunks, private rooms or apartments. I chose a private room, which ended up being an apartment in a building behind the main hostel. It was a quirky room with a fridge and an electric kettle. They serve a full breakfast in the morning, cooked to order. It was very nice! Their website has the option to book online; however, I couldn’t get it to work. I was able to book through Booking.com. I paid € 80 in cash upon arrival.